Friday, March 27, 2009

My Triangle Tour: Gaillac, Cordes and Albi

Like I said earlier in the week, if you live in France, you can expect visits from your friends and family back home and you'll at least be expected to show them around.

Whether you've got visitors or whether you are looking to do some exploring yourself, I thought I'd share what I call "The Triangle Tour". I've got other ones like "The Medieval Castle I've Seen a Hundred Times Tour", or "The Tell Me When to Leave the Motorway and We'll See What We Find Tour" and the "Head Down to Spain for the Cheap Booze Tour", but I like "The Triangle Tour" most.

Starting from Toulouse (it's an easy day trip - leave about 10am latest) you head northeast on the route to Albi (the A68 for those that need numbers). Remember to get petrol before you hit the road because there are no convenient stations! You'll need to pay a toll of 1€30 (last time I passed that way).

I've never seen this road busy and it's nice and smooth and great for putting on the cruise control. Just after the toll booths and leaving the Toulouse area there are nice rolling countryside hills dotted with lovely houses and I always say to myself "Geez, they must have great views from their place". Of course, I have to say it to myself because yet again, smooth roads, rolling hills, sunshine and too much wine with dinner the night before, causes visitors to nod off and leave the driver talking to himself!

After about 40 minutes or so there's one of those nice little rest stops that France does so well. They are also set nicely back off the road, and kept nice and clean (well, except for the hole in the ground toilets). I usually stop here to wake up the visitors, have a stretch and let the dog out for a break (she likes to come with us). There's a nice misting shower thing for people to use on hot days and that too will keep your visitors happy pushing the button and jumping out of the way from getting wet. (Small things, eh?)

Back onto the motorway and the very next stop a few hundred metres along is for Gaillac - wine region and the start of the Triangle. So off you get and follow the signs crossing over the motorway to Gaillac (then watch for the slip road up to the right). It's not far, maybe 5 minutes or so to the town. Though it always seems longer when you're not sure where you're going, doesn't it?

As you enter you should be crossing a bridge with a great view of the town on the riverbanks. Just like you imagine a French town to be like. On the far side of the bridge, there's a little car park where you can stop and take a few pics, pop into the Cathedral and visit the tourist information centre - they've got wine tasting, yay!


I haven't spent any more than a half hour or so at this spot in Gaillac so I'm sure there is more to investigate in the town but hey, I'm a tour guide with a schedule to keep so I tend to hurry everyone back into the car and head off again. (If you know Gaillac well, let me know if I'm missing anything.)

Keep your eyes on the road signs - your heading for Cordes sur Ciel. Work your way out Gaillac to get yourself onto the D922. I love this bit of road. It's starts off fairly straight and then gets all bendy and curvy, up and down hills, through villages. Vineyards are everywhere and you're welcome to stop and visit any of them (not us though, I'm on a schedule remember - so I lie and tell people they're closed). The countryside is really beautiful and the views along this road always make me happy.

Just keep going till the end of the road and you'll be making a left turn and bang - Cordes sur Ciel. The view of this town will have your visitors going 'wow'. A steep, pointy hill that they decided to build a town on quite a hundreds of years ago (it was about 1300 - OK, I'm lying again, I ain't got a clue - I've told you before to print out historical info from the internet). Pretty pictures here at the official Cordes web site.

When you come into the town try to get yourself parked near the first (almost invisible, watch the traffic!) roundabout. There's a little car park there and that's where the little train takes you up to the town at the top (costs about 2€50 I think). Now, you can walk if you like, I have before but ended up wishing I had an oxygen tank strapped to my back. By the way, flip flops or high heels are not recommended on my Triangle tour (cobble stones everywhere). I recommend the little train up and enjoy the walk down.

Up at the top there are all sorts of little artsy boutiques. There are restaurants (hope you got there in time!) and cafés and a great view. They've even got a sugar museum with elaborate sugar sculptures. Nobody on my Triangle tour has ever complained about Cordes - except my aunt with the blister on her heel.

Have a good look around, take some pics, relax with lunch and a refreshment and enjoy the walk downhill (at an angle you may not have experienced before). Then get back into the car, we've still got another town to hit.

You head back out of Cordes as you came in but continue straight on the road to Albi. Your visitors will fall asleep again here no doubt. It's about 20-25 minutes along the road (guessing).

Albi has a huge cathedral. The "most impressive I've ever seen" my brother exclaimed, and it is pretty impressive inside and out. Having seen it a few times myself already I like to sit and wait in one of the cafés with the dog while people explore (OK I'm lazy). The town has lots of bendy streets and nice shops and at the main cathedral square you'll also find the Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Museum (little tiny painter guy). Walk down behind that and the view is spectacular over the river and looks down onto perfectly manicured gardens from the (hmmm?) 15th century. Uh huh, that'll do. Very impressive anyway.


A little more exploring - Albi is very nice - and that it folks. Back to the car, follow the green signs for the motorway back to Toulouse (about an hour or so) and you'll have completed the triangle. Your visitors will nod off in the car again, very content with their day and you'll be back in time to get the BBQ going. Yay!

Happy touring,
Ronaldo

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